The last weekend in November, my daughter and I
decided to go to Hamburg, Germany, to visit their Christmas markets. Usually we
spend a lot of time in Birmingham, England, but for the past two years I
haven’t been able to travel as I have problems with my knees. Back in 2013 my
left knee suddenly collapsed under me, so I had to start using crutches in
order to walk and after a year on a waiting list I had surgery for a meniscus
tear. It didn’t work, though, as I also had osteoarthritis, so the cartilage in
the knee was gone and I had to wait another year to get a partial knee
replacement. I had this surgery in June this year, but lo and behold, it didn’t
help either. Because of the long wait, the nerves in my knee have been damaged
and I’m probably never going to be able to walk again without the use of
crutches.
Having to live a life with crutches also means having
to travel with crutches and that was why we decided that this first trip in two
years was to go to Hamburg, Germany, instead of Birmingham, England. The trip
to Birmingham takes seven hours, but the one to Hamburg only takes a little
over four and we only had to change trains once, whereas we have to change
trains three times and fly as well, when we are going to England. That would be
too much for my knees, but the Hamburg-trip was just right. Or so we thought.
It turned out that getting to Hamburg was a nightmare.
On the Thursday of our departure, the Danish Railways (DSB), were so delayed
and we kept being moved from one platform to another that we didn’t make our
connection to Hamburg. Instead we had to take the long way, changing trains
four times and reaching Hamburg with a 3½ hours delay. All in all, it took nine
hours from we left home until we reached the hotel and I was totally exhausted
and in so much paint that I didn’t think I would ever be able to walk again,
even WITH crutches!
The hotel was lovely, though, it being the budget
design hotel Prizeotel, south of the central station. It was very colourful and
modern and the staff very friendly. However, I had to go to bed straight away,
as I was totally exhausted from the trip and the next morning at the sumptuous
breakfast buffet, I had to have two morphine tablets just to be able to
function as not only was my left knee ruined by the exhausting trip the day
before, the right one had started acting up with osteoarthritis pain as well!
Because of my problems, we decided to divide the day
into three parts with breaks at the hotel between each, so I would be able to
rest my knees. After breakfast we therefore went to Hamburg’s art hall,
Kunsthalle, although it is currently undergoing modernisation. It is still
open, or rather the two hundred most famous art works are still on display, but
in the “SPOT ON” exhibition on the lower ground floor of the “Galerie der
Gegenwart”. It was still a great experience and we saw many wonderful masterpieces
such as Johann Georg Hinz’s “Kunstkammerregal – Curio Cabinet” (1666), Claude
Monet’s “Waterloo Bridge” (1902) and Edvard Munch’s “Madonna” (1894). I had a
bucket list moment when I saw Caspar David Friedrich’s “Wanderer über dem
Nebelmeer/Wanderer above the Sea of Fog” (1817/18) as I had written a paper
about it at university many years ago. I hadn’t expected it to be quite as
small, though, only 95 cm x 75 cm.
We had a very lovely lunch in the art hall restaurant
“The Cube” with a view of the lake Binnenalster, before we went back to the
hotel. It was quite easy to get around, because we had bought a Hamburg Card
with which we were able to travel unlimited with busses, S-Bahn and U-Bahn
trains. When I had rested my legs, our afternoon trip took us to the “Miniature
Wunderland”, the largest model railway in the world. This is probably the most
popular attraction in Hamburg and you have to book tickets before your arrival,
which we had done. The miniature wonder of a world was amazing, situated on two
floors of a building by the harbour. The model itself occupied 1,300 sqm, had
13,000 m track length, 215,000 figurines and 335,000 lights and had a day and
night simulation every fifteenth minute.
The gigantic model was divided into several areas like
Austria, Switzerland, Germany, the USA and Scandinavia and you could easily
spend hours looking at all the lovely, pretty and even funny details. Although
the wonderland was wheelchair accessible, you couldn’t really rest on the way
through it as there were only chairs in the Germany section and only five in
all. Because of this we had to cut our visit short (only an hour) and go back
to the hotel.
When I had rested and we had had a bit to eat, we went
to the Town Hall Christmas market that is said to be the largest one in
Hamburg. I don’t know if that is true, but it was without doubt the prettiest
and the most crowded! We arrived in time to see a real live Santa fly with his
sleigh and reindeer to the top of the very tall Christmas tree on the town hall
square, but that was almost all that we got to see. The market was just so
crowded that we could hardly move and there were so many people at the stalls
and small shops that you couldn’t even get in. We ended up going back to the
hotel early to rest and for me to have more medicine.
The next day I was still in a lot of pain, so like the
day before I had to have morphine along with my breakfast in order to make it
through the day. We had decided to take the S-Bahn to Beatles Square to see the
Beatles statues and walk down the street Grosse Freiheit to see the former Star
Club. It was probably a wise move to do this in the morning, because my daughter
found the many sex shops, strip clubs and other “adult” entertainment in the
street very intimidation and it would have been a million time worse at night.
As it was now, we only saw a single group of drunk guys, one dressed in a
Heidi-costume complete with yellow braids.
From Grosse Freiheit it was only a short walk on
Reeperbahn to the Panoptikum Wax Museum that my daughter wanted to visit. It
was a very small museum with a small ground floor room with a balcony where you
could see wax figures of people as diverse as Barak Obama, Angelina Jolie,
Queen Elizabeth II, Karl Lagerfeld and Toulouse-Lautrec. A staircase from the
balcony led upstairs to an even smaller room were you could see Martin Luther,
King Henry VIII, Hitler, Einstein, Beethoven and the man with two faces in
unholy harmony. It was a bit of a mess to be honest and so was the gathering of
figures in the last room of the wax museum: the basement. Here Dracula and
Harry Potter were grouped together alongside the Wolfman and a torture scene and
opposite you could see Chaplin and Beatles and the world’s fattest man. Michael
Jackson and Madonna were there as well as Elvis Presley, Marilyn Monroe and
James Dean and of course a lot of German artists. All in all, the museum was
much too small and the figures badly made and strangely grouped together, but
on the other hand you were offered both a folding chair to take along, so you
could sit down on the way and a headphones with a guided tour.
As I had rested a bit in the museum, we decided to have
lunch, before we went back to the hotel. We saw the Bismarck monument on the
way to the S-Bahn and my daughter shopped a bit in a Japanese store before we
ended up at the Christmas market in Jungfernsteig at lake Binnenalster. It was
a beautiful area and faith would have it that just as we were about to cross
the street, a Christmas parade came by. We had seen this parade getting ready
in the morning on our way to Beatles Square, but we hadn’t expected to see it
in action, but here it was. There were busses and sleighs with Santas, snowmen
with flags and an entire marching band. The Snow Queen was there as well in her
castle, waving angels on white clouds and dancing Santas, angels, gingerbread
men and Christmas trees. It was lovely. Afterwards we had lunch in the very
crowded Europa shopping centre before we went back to the hotel.
I had to stay at the hotel for the rest of the day as
not only did my knees hurt by now, both my thumbs were sprained as well, from
the extensive use of the crutches. In the evening we went to the nearby
Spitalerstrasse Christmas market, though, and it was very nice and small enough
for us to be able to actually buy things in the stalls and have pancakes and
candied apples as it wasn’t crowded. It was one of the highlights of the trip.
The next morning, we left early as we had to catch our
train back to Denmark at 9 a.m. and this time there was no problems as the
train left with German precision. It was a bit strange, though, as half of our
compartment was occupied by Syrian refugees and it was truly two worlds
colliding. On one hand you had the well-groomed European tourists with their
neat suitcases and packed lunches, on the other hand the un-groomed refugees
with their sleeping bags and a bread to go around between them. The leader sat
opposite me and he had money and a mobile phone much better than mine, but the
rest of them looked really tired and scared and it didn’t make things better
that the leader went around spraying them with deodorant because the stench of
twenty men who hadn’t bathed for months was overwhelming. When we reached the
border, the refugees didn’t want to seek asylum in Denmark, so they went on to
Sweden whereas we caught a train back home.
When I got home, both my knees were so ruined that so
far (2 weeks) I haven’t been able to walk normally on crutches again. All in
all, we had a lovely time in Hamburg, though, and it’s a city that I hope to
visit again. However, the next time I guess I’ll prefer to fly, no matter that
it is a lot more expensive, but at least I would avoid the handicap-unfriendly
chaos of the Danish Railways, DSB.